Diary of a Patek Philippe collector – Ref. 5167R review (8th aug 2020)

I have owned the Aquanaut Ref. 5167R for a few weeks. It has been on my wrist for the whole time. Although it is early days to give an owner’s review, I think it is possible to give some initial thoughts.

To be honest, I was a little concerned that I would not warm to an Aquanaut in coloured gold. It seems counter-intuitive to the watch. A watch that was originally designed for a military purpose should not really be cased in rose gold.

Having said that, the first Aquanaut was made just under 25 years ago. Aquanauts have undergone a number of iterations between that first military-edged variant and the current model. Today’s Ref. 5167 is a much more casual beast and one that could more readily take a coloured gold case. Well, that is what I told myself before buying one.

I was also concerned that the Ref. 5167R would be a little too overtly ostentatious for my taste. Yes, everyone has their own bias towards bling. I tend to think that bling is a bit tacky. So, I also had concerns about how “overt” the 5167R would be.

Well, after a few weeks on the wrist, I am fairly convinced that the 5167R will remain a firm favourite for me.

Firstly, rather than be a concern, the rose gold case has turned out to be a big positive for me. Patek Philippe have combined this rose gold case with a deep chocolate brown dial. The contrast between the rose gold and chocolate brown dial is just stunning to look at. Further, the composite strap is coloured very dark brown. The combination provides an absolutely superb aesthetic. In the summer sun, this watch looks fantastic.

Patek Philippe have created an absolute masterpiece in contrasting a chocolate brown dial and a rose gold case. It sings.

Secondly, regarding whether the watch appears too ostentatious, I would have to say that the dark brown composite strap really tones down the rose gold case. Obviously, everyone is different on this type of thing, but what I don’t want is for my watch to be shouting out “look at me. ” I actually want my watch to be relatively unobtrusive. To an extent, the 5167R is a relatively unobtrusive watch. Would I be comfortable wearing it in public? In some environments, I would definitely prefer an unobtrusive steel watch. But in many other situations, I can see the 5167R working well.

In addition to the above, I would also add that I think the 5167R is very much a summer watch. It is fun. Its dial and case look fantastic in the sun. And it is so easy to wear. Very comfortable. Would I want to wear it as a daily beater?

Well, during the summer and messing around at home, my answer would definitely be yes. In fact, I think it would probably be my watch of choice for that purpose. In this sense, the watch brings something new to the table within my collection.

How, and where, one wears a watch is very much a personal choice. For me, the 5167R is a watch that lends itself very much to casual summer days. The watch creates a real feeling of casual cool.

Some might say that I have taken that casual feel just a touch too far. And maybe the words “cool” and “Crocs” shouldn’t appear in the same sentence/picture….?